dreams & imaginations: Bharatpur Rocks ! Oct 2008......... & The Dusky Eagle Owl

Expectations were running high in me when I heard from my parents that we are going to Bharatpur during the Diwali break. We reached Bharatpur in around 4 hours, checked in to the hotel, had lunch…………. It all seemed to take too long & I was getting restless. I just wanted to head into the Keoladeo Ghana National Park !!

But there was one problem; we could not find Maan Singh. We had called his contact telephone number & requested them to pass on the message to Maan Singh. But obviously he had not got the message. Maan Singh has always been an integral part of my trips to Bharatpur. Birding is so enjoyable with him, he has so much insight into birds, plus he knows the park inside out, plus he knows my favourite birds, plus he knows the likely places where they might be !!

We looked out for him trying in vain to locate his whereabouts. With disappointment writ large on our faces we boarded another cycle rickshaw, but I was hoping to bump into Maan Singh somewhere in the park. But luck was with us & lo behold, we saw him very soon & I was happy to hop into his rickshaw though I did feel sorry for the other rickshaw driver. However, my father compensated him for his time so at least he did not lose any earnings.

The high for the first day was to see the Dusky Eagle Owl, the call of it was just awesome. Imagine listening to the call on a dark moon less night alone!!! That surely will give me the goose bums !!

We did a quick round of the park. Scopps Owl was simply a treat to watch.........

So was also the peace in which the Night Jar was sleeping on a branch.

The next day we spent about 4hrs in the park in the morning, The high point was the Saurus Cranes, one of them was sitting on a nest, the Pheasant Tailed Jacanas & the Bronze Winged Jacanas, we looked hard to see the floating nests, but couldn’t see any.

We went again to the park after a quick lunch. Had great views of a couple of Eurasian Hobby’s. A first time view of a Lagger Falcon. Then we had a close look at the Heronary. It was amazing to see the Painted Storks, the Cormorants, the Spoon Bills & the Darters share the same nesting spaces. Maan Singh showed us how the adults of Painted Storks would protect the chicks of the other species. Also how the adults protect the chicks from the sun by spreading out the wings etc. We also saw chicks which were just a week old.

The concentration which is writ large on the face of the Purple Heron, or the Night Heron, or the little Green Heron, or the Grey heron, just sitting quietly in wait for prolonged periods of time, without moving even a bit, alert & agile, & when they spot a prey, in one amazing striking elongation of the neck they catch the fish. And if it is a big fish then it flips it in the air & takes it in head first. I was privileged to see a Purple Heron do just that.

It was almost sunset when we were coming out of the park. We heard a jackal call, suddenly Maan singh jumped out from the rickshaw & said It is a Hyena !! Our eyes closed in on the Hyena. It was huge. Bigger than a German Sheperd dog, it crossed the path right behind us. I could not believe my eyes, I could not believe what I saw………. a Hyena. It was a truly awesome moment. By the time my mother got out of the rickshaw & adjusted the camera the Hyena was gone. But the picture will always remain in my mind………. A Hyena been barked at & chased by Jackals, & it crossing the path just 15 ft away from me. Truly a rocker moment !!

The next day we were in the park by sunrise. This time Maan singh took us through a different path. I was dying/ hoping to see an Osprey, I did see something which I thought was an Osprey, but it was too far away to even identify. Then we were cycling along quietly, then we saw a Greater Spotted Eagle. Actually it was only a dress rehearsal of things to come.

Just a few metres ahead, my eyes popped out in wonder when I saw a Steppe Eagle…………… (Correction, by Ramit: It is a Bonneli's Eagle)

It was so close, it was unbelievable, to see this beautiful bird sitting just a few metres away. I enjoyed the couple of minutes in its company, before it flew away. We cycled ahead, not believing my luck , I was still in daze thinking of the Steppe Eagle. (Sorry, actually Bonneli's Eagle)

Suddenly Maan Singh again stopped & pointed to my right, there again on my right hand side was one of my all time favourite birds : The Crested Serpent Eagle.

It was sitting in the sun, obviously 'had a dive in the water, so was sitting with the feathers spread out. I have never seen an Eagle so, so relaxed & did look at us many times, but was not bothered about our presence, he continued to sit where he was . We eyed him for about 20 minutes, till we decided to say good bye.

So that was it !!

After two & a half days of intensive birding, it was finally time to leave. Bharatpur rocks, it just rocks. I used to wonder the last two years when I used to hear that there is no water in the park, i used to worry & feel helpless. But i felt so humble to see nature rejuvenate itself to offer a nesting & a breeding place for all these species who come in sometimes all the way from Europe & Mongolia.

I hope to go back in December or January (hopefully with some of my friends) when all the birds arrive & when Bharatpur is at its best.

As of now here is the list of birds i saw :